Learn from Box Owners and garage gym-ers like you. And quick Q.: how long (wide) do you recommend the main bar to be? Control yourself on the way down. If you are planning to use the outside (angled) handles, 4 feet will be way to wide…In the list of material above, I used a 24 inch wide straight pipe. TimothyMallet coachchris Comprasffernandes – I don’t think that the actual bar is going to give you any issues, but if you would feel more secure with the 1″ bar – go for it! I’m interested in how you secured it to the 2×4 with carriage bolts? Stud Bar ships in two separate boxes, the two “T” brackets ship in a large box and the round bar ships in smaller longer box. I figure if I change the lower elbow to a T, I could come down about 3′ ish ( still need to measure) then add another T with one extension going about 18″ or so to brace against a the wall, maybe even bold it there with masonry screws, and the other facing me with a 6″ pipe. I know we do this all the time these days, but back in the day, this was a novel idea. You’ll find pull up assist bands and gymnastic rings on our Accessories page. Routine. X 4? It may work, I’d be concerned with stability, but anchoring it to the wall should be do the trick. Curious – on the other pullup bar, your long bar is 48″; this one shows only 24″ – that seems like it would put the outer ones too close for a wide grip. Jump up & use momentum. Let me know if that helps! We won’t be able to blame the equipment inner built it…. I already had the 2×4 lumber. Or does it work out ok. Perhaps needs to be adjusted based on person’s height and arm length?? Hang a set of rings off the pull-up bar and now you can do dips, rows and other fun stuff, too. It worked out though, because it matches my resistance bands. Why did you use 5 inch carriage bolts? Yes! Nice work! Could you use lag screws instead to put the pull up bar into the 2×4? Once I get it Monday I will see if I can post some pics. Let him help you on the way up by squatting down & pressing up. Looks like 3 inch would work better. Email, text or call us here: article about choosing a height for your pull up bar. Also, maybe I missed it somewhere, but what was your final cost to build this? Just set mine up! Looks cool. 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The securing of the bar to the ceiling is going to be where you’ll want to ensure everything is sound. Check the online site, might help. Thanks for the tips, guys. Learn how your comment data is processed. Hit us in the comments below, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org, or call us 512.201.4404. I purchased all of the 3/4 size hardware needed at Lowes except for the 3/4 cross fitting. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/c3782f1f3d61bc416f232a0f45abe23884d73b8b85cc332b98dfabb548e7943d.jpg. So you used the lag screws to screw the 2×4 into the joist and the carriage bolts to pass through the 2 x 4, through ceiling, through an additional 2 x 4 that was screwed in between joists? Don't forget your washer! JamesCygnus – I was only able to find that at Lowe’s, I had to go to a couple of different stores. Overall, it’s about 18 inches from the ceiling itself. Use Momentum. Here is a complete list of materials that you will need to make a pull-up bar just like the image above. Then, fasten the board to the wall with about 8 lag screws … Stud Bar can be mounted to an appropriate length 2 x 4 which can then be bolted across your existing studs. I didn’t move the handles around once I had setup, but I suppose you could try – not sure what other positions you were thinking for the handles? Great work! I don’t want him to feel cramped. CristJian did you just spray paint yours? As far as the size of the bar itself, I’d probably go with the large size if possible. The Stud Bar is rated for a 600 pound weight capacity. What you can’t see in any of the photos is the support 2×4 in the attic space that the carriage bolts must also go through. Would quarter inch lag screws/carriage bolts be able to support a person’s weight? What a well written article and the instructions with pictures was super convenient to print out and take with me to the hardware store (as its hard to stay focused standing at the shelves sometimes). Well, the wood studs behind them are solid wood, and structurally sound. I purchased everything at Menards during one of their sales, which probably helped quite a bit. The installation can vary from person to person due to access to attic space above garage or ceiling it is being installed onto. GabeDarnell – There shouldn’t be a lot of play in any of the connections once you have it in place. Let me know if you decide to put this 4-position pull-up bar together and how it works out for you! People were not used to hanging a 30 pound item off their wall. Yes. Is your ceiling 8′? I’d hate for you to get injured or cause damage to your walls if it came crashing down. How did you lock the various elbow joints in place to prevent them from moving? It seems that the bolt holes on the flange are too small to take the 3/8″ lag screws/carriage bolts. We ship Fed Ex ground from San Diego, Ca you can expect delivery within 5 days. Though, being able to get all 4 lag screws into something solid may be tricky. Hi chris! Do you have other questions about the Stud Bar pullup bar that aren’t answered here? I think the total for everything was somewhere between $60-70? If you need to find someone that will hold you accountable, answer your questions, help you, and PUSH YOU for the entire duration of your workout! The steel pipes are tough enough to hold my 170+ lbs frame. Just picked up the majority of the pieces of the puzzle as the iron cross was not available at my local Homedepot or Lowes. The additional grips available allowed me to work my back muscles at slightly different angles for a more complete workout. Are you able to move them easily for additional variations or do you lock them in place? 15 years ago, big, flat screen TVs were EXPENSIVE. I also got wood screws 1/4″ x 5″ to attach the the 2×4 to the ceiling joists in my basement. Can it be installed on wall without wood.??? Pingback: 25 Best Gym Equipment Projects to DIY At Home – DIY & Crafts. We're responsive. Shipping fees are non-refundable. The boxes often arrive on the same day but we can’t guarantee that. I used the opportunity to share what I built with a dedicated website, which you can check out here: Make a Pull-Up Bar. I found that quarter inch lag screws/carriage bolts do indeed fit through the 3/4″ flange. You can certainly try, but I think you have a hard time finding proper anchoring. Alternate Chin-ups with Pull-ups when you get stronger. Email us for a shipping quote. In stock orders shipping next business day! Yes! Headed to Lowe’s later this week. It does not give any installation instructions. I’ve never built anything with this type of pipe. Thanks for this. Use a resistance band to help you on the way up. Thanks in advance! Hey Jonathan – I just happened to find one of the receipts for this build. Any questions? Based on your (and your readers’) experience in workouts and with various equipment, can you offer any thoughts on this before I get started? Also note that "lag screws" are also called "lag bolts" or just plain "lags" by some people. Once you have the support structure in place, the pull-up bar itself shouldn’t be a problem. To finish installing your pull-up bar, place the board over the studs again. The nice thing is depending on where you install the bar, you can use it from both sides. You bet! The width is pretty good. Similar to k5.user's plan, check out the Stud Pull-Up Bar or similar items. I believe I paid about $40-45. Thanks, Matt. Any special type of paint? Swing your hips while pulling yourself up until you get stronger. From pull-up rigs, to retractable squat racks, to pull-up bars and more, Fringe Sport has the pull-up rigs (sometimes called "CrossFit Rigs") and squat racks you need- check us out!
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